The world’s most treasured islands – the land – sea – sky – an overview

One of the first instructional sessions we had with Juan had to do with the ocean currents. At the time, I started to glaze over a little wondering what this had to do with my experience. I was soon to be dramatically aware that the currents, and thus water temperature were very important. Particularly, as a non-swimmer, snorkeling in 60-70 degree water.

When you think of Galapagos, one of the most important insights into life on Earth : Darwin’s theory of evolution come to mind. Interestingly, the Beagle, Darwin’s boat was only in the area of 29 days. The old islands emerged as jet-black cliffs rising from a sparkling sea of blue. As the island aged and soil was added, more flora, insects, and plant life developed.

There are about 100,000 tourists annually with people being the new species. In the pic to the left, you see the feet and shadow of only three visitors standing on lava rock.

My research indicates that the first people arrived in the 1800’s with the majority coming in 1920 and then post war 1940. At this time, there are some controls on permanent residents but the number has risen to just under 30,000.

On land, sea, and water, there are almost 9000 other species.... the only penguin in the northern hemisphere, the only ocean-going lizard, plants that reproduce without pollination. Species occur in huge concentrations: Hundreds of marine iguanas and up to a million birds can be seen at once.
An oceanic archipelago of 13 large islands and more than 100 smaller ones holds the secrets of evolutionary processes. With an array of terrains created by different elevations and wind patterns, the Galapagos encompasses deserts with forests of cacti, subtropical forests harboring giant tortoises, lush cloud forests with towering scalesia trees, and wetlands cloaked in ferns and grasses and mangroves. You can see our Samba boat sitting off shore.

The climate in the Galapagos Islands is different than one might imagine from islands located on the equator. The climate is dominated by the prevailing current; which creates strong, unpredictable tides between islands, cooler than normal temperatures, and ultimately results in the unique ecology of the islands.

The main ocean currents effecting the Galapagos Islands are the cold Counter Equatorial (Cromwell) Current from the west, the cold Humboldt (Peruvian Oceanic and Peruvian Coastal) Current (which brought the penguins and fur seals and which causes the choppy water in the Fall) and the from the southeast, the South Equatorial Current from the east, and the warm North Equatorial (Panama) Counter Current from the northeast which brings with it the devastating and infrequent El Niño (named for the Christ child since the effect first occurred at Christmas) Current. ( This is the prominent current in November and this water has less nutrients and thus is better for underwater visibility)The mix of these currents and the location of the island in relation to the mix cause a wide variation of water temperatures from island to island.

The mirror image of the lava hill reminded me of the pyramid

Is this thousands of miles away or the cost of Maine... If you could see closer, you would see several rare birds, crabs, and foliage that would defiantly say.... not Maine

This might be a parking lot in Iowa or the sheets of ancient earth surface.

There is also some grass.. but no, that is not a crane lost in the reeds..but a stick posing as a bird.

Or maybe this is the Florida Everglades with the red mangrove.... you will see later that the waters are full of life that is not found in FL.

Each day brought a new view and more wonder at the variety of land found on the Islands.

This one of my favorite pictures since you can see the rocky land, mountains, and sky in the air bubble on the left of the pic.

Food

Unlike my long ago trip to Mexico, when I thought I would never look another refried bean in the pod, I have rekindled my love for potatoes. As a child, I would get up during the night turn on the oven and bake a potato. Ice cream was in the refrig and chocolate in a dish... it was the potato that called me. I was in a good place in Ecuador....they love potatoes along with some form of banana and rice which is served at every meal. There are some variations on the theme, but Locro... or potato-cheese soup is a staple. I had read about it before, but once you are there, if you don't like it..you are out of luck at almost every meal. Here is what I observe in the kitchen in the rain forest, asked about in a small restaurant in Quito, and observed through the porthole into the kitchen ... the measurements came from an online Ecuadorian cookbook....4 to 6 servings

• Oil or butter -- 1/4 cup
• Onion, minced -- 1/2
• Garlic, minced -- 3 to 4 cloves
• Potatoes, peeled and diced -- 1 1/2 to 2 pounds
• Water or stock -- 4 cups
• Milk -- 1 cup
• Salt and pepper -- to taste
• Muenster, queso fresco or mozzarella cheese, shredded -- 1 cup

1. Heat the oil or butter over medium flame in a large pot. Add the onion and garlic and simmer until the onion is translucent.
2. Stir in the potatoes, water or stock, milk, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until potatoes are falling apart, 30-45 minutes. Mash the potatoes up a bit with the back of a spoon to thicken the soup, leaving it a little chunky.
3. Remove the soup from heat and stir in the cheese. Adjust seasoning and serve immediately.
Variations
add some chopped chili peppers, handful of corn kernels and garnish with avocado...

I can't say I feel the same about twice fried green plantains, but they were also a common side dish. Took awhile to figure out what they were. In the Amazon, with Leslie speaking Italian and Roberto speaking Spanish and me watching figure pointing, I figured out that there were definitely banana's and banana's... some you had to cook and some you could cook or not cook and some you could eat but could be cooked. [I also learned that one palm could be use to improve the prostrate and cure sore throats and another could put you in to a 10 day state of hallucination...I don't think I will be trying that since I can't remember which was which]

In Puerto Rico this is called Tostones.. but after looking on several menus the last day in town, it is Patacones in Ecuador. The key is the green, unripe plantains.

Heat about 1/2 inch of oil in a heavy skillet (medium heat) .put in the plantains in a single layer and let them brown on both sides. Drain on a paper towel. When they are cool enough to work with ...flatten with a glass or plate and then shape them into a patty about 1/3inch thick.... then return to the oil in the skillet and brown on both sides....... unripe plantains have a high starch content and you think at first that they have slipped in some potato..but it is all plantain.

Reflections

Same same but different is our Thai way.

As I took some processing time during the last days in South America, I thought of my usual way, expected way, familiar way of putting my thoughts about travel down to share with anyone who wants to read it and to remind myself of my life travels and lessons. In the past, I have had strangers comment..too long.. more pictures, less talk, etc. and I say...interesting... and my child bonny says...this is my travels, get your own life. Today will disappoint some but my body and energy doesn’t give me the tools to fuss with pictures and talk about what was presented to me. I am going to take some real time to talk about the venture, but it will not be my usual travelogue but reflections of many different aspects and parts that added to my bank of memories and elements that are just beginning to put perspective to my journey.

I am more convenience than ever, that life – people places thoughts are brought to our person so that we can get keys or tools to live our lives in a mindful, aware, and compassionate manner. Each is given opportunities and since we have free will, we can do with what is presented as we will. In some Buddhist monasteries, a beginner mind is asked... without language, memory, mind, interpretations, or expectations...what is happiness? As I got off the boat, left the forest, or reentered people that I needed to connect to and particularly when you step off the slower “boat” of your now world into the moving sidewalk of large crowds – and airports in NJ, I felt myself grabbing onto my inner wall and hanging on for as long as I could. Oh, I have so very much to learn about my own still point. As we passed through Chicago, I saw a woman on the “cushion” in the midst of it all... breathe in... Breath out... and the mist of calm fell on me. There is always a Now but there is also the choice to be on the Now treadmill reacting or Now walking...observe, reflect, take it or leave it... and be in the next moment to do the same.
At one point when I was on the boat, I watched a particularly interesting cloud formation, birds circling, and the shadows of the sea life swimming by. The boat was on an even crawl through relatively calm see.... I tried to open every part of me... hear the waves, small the water and air, feel the vibration, see everything in my horizon and squint to see more.... There was that ever so small slot of everything was awake and aware... and I hugged everything that was me and said... I am so blessed that this is the life I have allowed for yourself... felt the tears of respect for my effort and fortitude that at this age, I had put my fears behind me and allowed myself not to say...you are too old....you can’t swim...and this is the dawning of another new day...and it did not pass uselessly away.
When I went in to the cabin.. there were three boatmates reading novels....and I smiled and thought... same same (place and time) but different.

back but not the same

to say this was life changing is an understatement...I have just begun to put it all in perspective..
but there is much to think about...the pic above is the arena group and the two ausies looking for sydney were a great breath of young life.. there is also a pic of on of thousands of sea lions, Lonesome George the turtle. I am well ...with the help of our guide I was in the water almost as much as the anyone...;and more than most...only a little sick one morning....but did fine the rest of the time.... not the same for alll....I hope to come back with more knowledge and stay longer.....

At the top is sunset - iguana - rays in the water and the dolphines... I had a shark swim by me about 4 feet away...swam with big sea turtles.... incredable is the word

Wednesday

Incredible. I can not express how great the food, the guide and what we are seeing. Several are not doing too well with their stomach and tonight we are told to take something since it will be a rough passage...but we will just have to remember ..sea lion babies..several days old, and iguana, and tortous........ This is truly the last natural place... we wash our shoes to keep us from speading items from place to place. must go.... only little time on shore... all are well i have 700 pic to this date....bye

Waterloo

I have ventured to many places ...but Quito got me. The "at" sign is in the keyboard and thank you Candy... I found your email and pasted it into the sign in and then took out all but the sign. We now have found that alt 64 produces the sign. Just another opportunity for growth.
There is very little time for talk this am since the van picks us up in half hour and we must eat..
The altitude took its tool on several yesterday. Cheryl left her breakfast in the bathroom and several others were holding thei head. The city is not worth the long trip but we toured some chuches and some of the athletic ones went to the top of one of the churches while the rest sat for an hour. The temp was varied...warm and cool. The group looks like a great diverse bunch. Carolee are roomies and that will be very good.. we are both low maintance. The Thai 5 are back but with Page with good eyes. JoAnn appears very settled and comfortable with her new life and Dave the man she is dating...and for some of us.. the wasband. Joe is the baby of his family but he is the alpha dog and leader. He has just come to say, breakfast is served..so this must be short or he will start to pace at the four of us typing. His brother Paul is the athlete and found a good mate in college Nancy...so 30 years of hiking to the top of this and that and walking marathons have gotten them in great shape for riding a bike for miles or climing. Joe´sister Pat and Dan are very helpful and comfortable to be around. The only one I have not had a long conversation with is Dan and Pat, but I suspect on a little boat for 8 days we will all know each others shoe size. Donna and Lesley are the other two women.. both independent entraprenuers Donna just sold her business and is contemplating social work.. and Lesley who does banding and marketing has visions of an italian villa when she retires..and isn`t life great... sorry no pictures.. and sorry you will get little info until who knows. All is well and it is another beautiful day in paradise.
oppps.. just tired to spell check.. the dictionary is in spanish.... so..you are on your own.

OFF TO THE SOUTH

Greetings. I have had a life and have been writing, but not travelling. So at 10am today, the venture begins in Ecuador to see the blue footed Bubi and other wonders in the land of Darwin. After a day in Quito, we board the Samba and are off to the Galapagos - Santa Cruz, Espanola, Floreana, Isabela, Fernandina for 7 nights and 8 days. Upon our return, one of the folks on the trip and I will venture to the rain forest for still an other experience and then at the end of two weeks.. it is homeward. The ride is leaving shortly... but you will hear and see much more... and away we go...................