Reflections of a hike - PART I

When I sign up for something and think of the adventure, I see myself about 30ish and ready to go and do anything. I have battled ligaments and disc issues and for the most part, except for getting into "proper" yoga position, I am able to get thru it. When Page gave me her bucket list for Vietnam, I did the research and hiking in the mountains to a hilltribe family and spending the night, sounded like right up my alley. I forget that I am 40 pounds too heavy and my energy which is better than many is not what it was. We got our visa's and sent in the money and completed the plans to get out there. While I am home, and probably few will read this, I wanted to share and record the minds eye of the journey.

At 9ish, we boarded the Hanoi to Sapa sleeper train, well you can sleep if you can get over the shake rattle and roll and heat in the sleeper car filled with four breathing bodies in a small space. A compatible German couple were in the compartment and even as we jiggle our way, Page's eyes were red and puffy and she had the option of not going. We arrived at 6am to the station and boarded a minivan set out on an hour plus ride through the hills. This was to be a sample of the next few days for at no time was the van going in one direction. In addition to up and down there was the right to left. One of the most stark differences between Vietnam and Thailand is the use of the horn. While there are 12 million drivers in BKK and 4 million in HCMC, the difference is the use of the horn. In Thailand, much like here, you blow the horn when you are anticipating that if one of the vehicles does not alter the direction, there will be a crash. In Vietnam, you blow to tell anyone/thing that you are coming and expect the right away. You would do this at a turn, dip, drive, chicken etc. To say that the trip to Sapa was a quiet early morning ride on a fairly deserted road would not be accurate. I am sorry there are only pictures and not sound. In addition to fighting any long gone car sick issues with the twist and turns, you also have a head ache. When we did arrive in town after a slowly clearing morning sky and arrival of the sun, to a sweet little place much like a small German or Mexican village, you are excited to see that you will survive. Also seeing what appear to be short Alps, you begin to rethink the "intermediate trek" concept and think you should have questioned the intermediate part of hike.

I must admit, at that point, I would not have been too disappointed to have Page say she was too ill to do it. Not a chance, this is one gutsy gal. Born with a curved spine and acquiring glaucoma and a myriad of allergies, has not stopped her from just getting up for any adventure. Other than requiring vegetarian grub and not being able to take most western meds, you did not hear, I won't or don't want to do or eat that. Actually, the only thing for me not to understand, she is not a big beer drinker nor does she drink coffee but still, she was a great travel buddy and appeared most sane otherwise. We had breakfast in a place where when you placed your order, the child left the restaurant and went out for break and eggs. Somehow they did not understand that Page also wanted eggs and had to make a separate trip. These are the things that take some getting use to. The number 3 breakfast looked like beverage, juice, and eggs, bread, jelly, meat. What it was really saying is you go a choice rather than the usual eggs and toast with jelly. We paid the extra 2000 dung. The travel folks, although I had very clearly told them that we were vegetarians had not gotten the word to our young guide so she went off to the market to get our food that she would carry with us for lunch, dinner, and breakfast. In the market, we had noted the tofu so at least, if we lived, we would eat. We did notice other things for sale and while I will not add a picture, it is fairly rare to see chickens in this condition. When they have the feathers off, they do not have the inspection sticker that says they are free of Asia Flu. Most of the families that buy a chicken, get one that has is neck broken at the market and then is trucked home held by its feet with all the feather still on. A good tip if you are ever in Sapa buying your weekly grub. In someways the market in this little town was similar to many that we have seen in Asia, except the food looked greener and fresher to me and each stall, a clone of the last, appeared to be taking such pride in the product. There were a few things that we did throughout the trip. Nightly we toasted, "another wonderful day in paradise" and we often thought of our other travelling friends - Cheryl when there folks selling and things to buy,

JoAnn when we wondered if what was presented would be a stretch - sanitation, food prep etc. and our french fry steak brother Joe when some signs presented them self and we both smiled. It was hard not to think of the three home since we would have only enjoyed our experience more if there were three more to laugh and smile at what we were seeing and experiencing. Soon after breakfast, it was time for one last flush and start out. Like many towns in VN, the folks are very poor and rely on the tourist to buy their goods. Each trip dresses a little differently, and what they were on their head will tell you if they are married or not. When you see the housing and the know the number of folks living in one space, it is not surprising that there are children everywhere and most, even the children have children. The woman covering her child in the basket probably is not married since she doesn't have a "married hat" on but she will have her child well bundled since it is "winter".

There are also men, but they work in the rice fields and go to work in their indigo blue outfits, each with a pick and basket. Each person eats about a kilo of rice a day. Thailand produces more rice, but you are much more aware of the rice in VN. While I will say more about the material of the garment later. Each year on NewYears, they complete the new clothes. This is done by making hemp into string and then into a weave of three strands and then woven into cloth and then sewed into a garment and then dyed in the indigo by soaking it and then polishing the materiel. After the cloth is complete, they add the stickery. It takes about 8 weeks to make the clothing. they use last years for everyday and the "new" for good.

While this looked like an alternative to the trekking.. that is even more gear than I had and the roads are almost in the same condition as the trails.

In the pictures of the young workers, they used a relay team to carry the sand and bricks down the hill. The shovel man filled the basket and they helped the carrier with the basket to his head. At each stop, the men would help each other move the basket to the next head until the sand was down to the construction site. They did this all day long - first sand then bricks.. In the hills, we say the same process but they used motor bikes to load the bags and take them down. They are hard working people who take incredible pride in everything they do and work long hard hours.

We rode a van about a mile or so until we got to the path to start through three villages In the next blog entry. you will see the variations on "path" and some of the rice tiers that are everywhere as we walked. Has been my practice, just before I am about to do something that is a stretch, I picture me and call it the last picture....and hopefully, there will be many more.

nearer my god to thee

We took a bit of drop over Tokey... even with the seat belt, my body left the seat. It is cold here..44 degrees.. and grey. Helping us get ready to come home. I had an extension put on my hair.. but the plane sleep got the best of it. no pics this time.. this is costing 100yen.. so only 10 min. Great trip. sorry I have given the impression that some was not good. I would be more relaxed if it were just me, but the company was good and yesterday.. got my toes and face done and then sat for a big chang and took pictures.. some amazing faces on the road to no place. Same same but different.. I feel very much the same.. but some difference. I will have to tighten the belt to pay the bills and have money for my return.. but i can do it and have a couple of years to do so.. I would go back to VN if someone were going.. every place is easier if you have been there. it is 15 to 1 in the am before me come home time. I have a beer waiting so I will sit and sip while we pass the next 2 hrs waiting.. this time.. bonny and page are at the same place at the same time. I think her eye is almost all better.. We should have told it that we were coming home earlier. Oh, I forgot to mention I was a bag lady last night... we found a quiet part of the airport.. got organized and slept on the floor by our bags. It was no harder than some of the beds we have had, so I slept pretty good.. bye and last note... b

post dinner

Great dinner.. the best.. and then had to try a bong on the way to the Internet... Page looks worried and I can't see enough to type.... so you are on your own.
Thank you to Joe and Linda and Georgette and black dog for helping to think that they is something to come home to... b.

sunday morning in BKK

It is not that I want to write, since I am not sure if anyone but Joe and Georgette are reading.. but I am very hot. We just did a ride thru the canals on a long boat. I am getting the hang of getting in and out..and the good many had us sit down to get in.. so I was able to bring my knee to the shore...and stayed dry without Sheila grabbing me. We went to an interesting market. On the way back.. even thou the man called me stingy..I got Liz's pillows. Now just the dreaded frog... I will try to have one foot on the bus. We are leaving town at 10PM for airport. Last night when I finished, I had an hr foot massage, a beer and the best grilled cheese sandwich at 1am... the road was closing and the drunks were looking for the next adventure they would not remember. It is interesting to look... sometime it is just as good without a camera...but I will only remember it in my head... I really like the Thia's and this land.. and you can not get a pineapple like you can here. off to toes, face, and buy some t-shirts.... Joe... in case you forgot what I look like.... I will be the one with a new hat.... you will guess who I am...... b

home...second home

As busy and crowded as it is... I love the food, the beat, and the sights. I am at my favorite AC Internet near my smoothie place. Page's eyes are red again and so she decided to sack out and watch the Palace. The sweet woman is at the Internet and loaned me a hub so I didn't have to buy one. While the pics are loading... we met the Spanish girls who are studying in Australia. Since they wanted our kingsize bed and can't leave their hands off each other.. I suspect they are in the experimental state.. but they also don't have much money so we shared our hotel cab with them. We got to the airport without trouble and got the plane to HCMC... waited a little and then got the plane to BKK. Jetstar uses Bangkok air for this jump.. so we got some grub. We took our time this am and packed well so we left the bags at the airport and will be there tomorrow night before midnight. The bus in was extremely crowded and the hotel was full .. so I was very glad I paid for the 3 bed room... and Page could be settled and put a hot towel on her eyes. In the picture on the right is our guide and my hero of a kayaker.. Mach and the two Spanish girls. The Canadian couples bought wine and were kind enough to share it with the group. In this picture is one of the couples. They have known each other a long time and all the men have some engineer connection and are retired and working on the bucket list... doing four trips a year. When the woman came to sell her pearls, I was very happy that they were along since they had the Cheryl shopping bug. It was and interesting group...we were the moderates.. Fernando... a young man in the money business from the Canary Isls who is about to be a father is on his last adventure before responsibility sets in and he is assisting the mother... etc. The girls were eating noodles on the street.. As I have said, it was the three Spanish, Page, Mach and bonny that went on to Kayak. We also ended at the resort and then traveled to the city. They were so very kind to speak English.

This looks like a good picture insert night... and only took a few minutes. When we got to the boat we were taken for a rid in a little wooden boat that was pushed by young people. This woman/girl was the "captain" of one of the other boats. I almost bought a hat.. but could not imagine feeling ok wearing is.. so no hat. The folks in this fishing village rely on the tourist.. but we were very happy to hear that our tour place paid for the little school house and helps support the teacher. The children only go to school for a short time each day, but they are learning to survive when they go to the market. It is a very hard life... they must fish or they will starve. This boat is made out of basket weave and has some wood for support. the paddles can be push/pulled by hand or feet. if you are tossing a line, you must use your feet. the process goes like a bike with the toes holding. We spent the time the first day touring around this little village, which was more prosperous than the Cambodian bunch. I wondered what Mach thought as he looked out on the rocks. Such a thin man. He makes enough money to have an apt with three others in Hanoi and get some food and most of all.. have daily coffee. There were two guides.. and I think only Page and I gave him a tip.. the other guide went with the Canadians.. we had a great time.. shared a beer.. but he got the reward. At the end of the day we came back for the wine and multiple courses of food.. this is course 4 or 5 out of 7 or 8. The staterooms had nice beds and showers etc. It was very high living. Page got a picture of me in the kayak but you can see that by dragging my camera I did have a reward or two. I actually have many pictures to show, but these are two that I am very fond of. The sky was hazy so we did not get color. We also did not see but heard the birds.. nor did we see the golden headed monkey. We did see pods hung off bamboo that is a shell fish farm and we saw coral and schools of fish trying to just way from the bigger fish. This is a pic of a little cove we paddled to... is was so quiet and pristine.. We were on many different types of boats. The boat on the left in this pic is our lunch boat and from where we crawled down the little to get into the Kayak.. they really laughed when I went backwards but I would have don't anything not to tip the boat and get on board and breath... by the time we returned.. I was pulling out the camera often and clicking away. It was a beautiful spot to learn too Kayak.. and I really want to go again. When we left the boat we went to the harbor and stayed at the in on the ocean. I took this pic from our balcony.. The rest of the place was as nice. I am so glad we hiked first.. this was a great way to end our time. Since this is a catchup. The next picture is of the musical group that played for the puppet show. In the middle is the woman that played the string that sounded so sweet. I am sorry I don't know the name of it but it is a very interesting instrument. The final picture is from the plane window as we took off from HanOi... a very very large city... and now for a Chung... and maybe a massage.. after all it is only 11pm.. and this is bkk..and Khosan is calling my name.

back in the city

We had an eventful time coming back.. a hydrofoil... made pre war I think or atleast the condition was similar. The bathroom was... don't think JoAnn would like this one.. but after an hour of slosh.. it was any port in a storm. We bused to the city and found that the govmt runs the public bus and they have "liberty" to go where they want even if your space is there. We had the only not honk driver in HO...but he managed to put the vehicle against the curb to let the roudy me first bus go ahead. Our guide for the kayak.. and my boat partner was the sweetest person.. and Mich.. said Mike with stong I. He told us the hotel just accross the street was very good.. so we went there and got a room with bkft for $35... 701.. best room in the house.. it is the pent house with windows overlooking the city on three sides... interesting. One of Page's bucket list was the water pupet.. tickets are hard to comeby.. but we got 1st class seats at the 8pm show... they play an instrument.. with one string... amazing sound. It is usually played by a woman.. since the father's fear that if a man played it.. the dtrs would run off with the player since the sound is so lovely. the show was good and most Page loved it. so... all is good and only one city was missed on her trip. I went to get my cash withdraw last night only to be told.. card denied. since it was midnight, I was able to chat with bonnie at the summit.. and she said.. no problem.. then a dutch student told me that when they run out of money.. you have the problem... so I am back in $ this am. We have already paid for the room in bkk... the plan is to pack.. pray that I find the last underware.. and then off. We are hoping to pack so we can leave the big bag at the airport.. and just pack to the swasdee. We have reserved the room with a view.. and we will do our own thing tomorrow. Page asked if I was ready to come home.. yes and no.. clean underware is calling me. but I have spent more time being the leader and little time just watching... only watch as I walk..... We are meeting the 2 spanish girls so we can share a cab.. they are flying at 1:30 and uns 1... then 2 hrs in hcmc... I will stay at the airport... enough of that city... We had a wonderful meal last night...big treat... pumpkin/ginger soup, risotto/mushoorms/pine nuts, garlic bread, hanoi red (2) liter beer, and ended with fresh fig cheese cake... mmmmm whiped my mouth with a large smile.. Thanks to Joe/Cheryl for your notes and encouragement... you should go to VN... to the bay and snorkle.. coral, fish, nice... the HO area is nice and Sapa is very nice.. just do a little day hike and stay in town.. also you can easily rent a bike here and see the country... off..... b.

post massage

I have had two oil massages this trip. One, not too comfortable in the same room with a friend. It had more to do with my body immage than the roommate. The massage was ok... but today at this spa, I had a 90 min. super spa massage from a woman who was about as tall as my chest and about the wt of a 4th grader. Not only did she snap every bone she walked along my back like a tap dancer and sprung from my butt to my shoulder like a gazelle. The oil was not over done and I am not a pile of slather but there is not a spot except under my arms that has none been push pulled and snapped. Unlike most massages, I don't feel like a noodle but more like a refreshed and ready to go. I have pulled info re the place..,.looks like $100 us but the place is very resort and you can do day trips for $25...rent a scooter to see the national park etc. This area is a international herritage place. There is snorkle and kayak.. etc.. it would be a very interesting place to come and stay and just enjoy... the food is terrific... this am they made fried eggs etc.. pancakes... and of course all the things they eye.. soup, rice etc... last night we slept with the door open to the porch and could hear the waves crashing on the shore... and now.. we will take a hydroboat and then a bus.. and then the city. So far, peasant boat, small tug, tanpan, canal canoe, ferry for people and of course canoe... plane, bus, van, jeep, train...we have been on the move and my eyes are in overload for the beauty and interesting sights... by until han oi.

morning after

When I wrote last night I was very tired, but if you have ever typed in Asia..you know the keys sometimes at some places can have a mind of its own. I have also discovered that most places have a VN dictionary installed so unless you type a word that is a VN word..it will mark it in yellow. While I reread last night and only the dilligent will get the drift.. I don't have the time to organize it. I am also so sorry I can not get pictures in until later. We will be back in HanOi to day and I will try to stick in a few. I have one of Page walking on the edge and helping to chop up yams for the whisky...which has been requested. the area could look like the thousand islands without grass and then the islands with short rocky mts. or Gaspe Bay.. it is hazy.. and I have tried serveral things to get a photo that is equal to the eye. If I came back.. (ok Joe/Cheryl/JoAnn)... I would get out of town HCM quickly but I did enjoy the mykong.. just a long ride. We are in a resort that could be in the Caribian.. re the attention and design. the bed is hard but a s big wide and long... bathrobes, modern hot circular shower.. overlook to the bay with fresh oranges to eat... etc.. and a safe. You would love it.. and think you were in FL... the staff are all in uniform etc. As I have said several times.. my 90 min massage for $16 is at 10. My legs are again working and my arms are not too sore.. so this will be lovely. I hope to get back early enough to run for pupet show tickets since that is what Page wanted to do before we came. Tomorrow back to BKK and I hope to have a day just to look at my own toes and not think or be expected to think about where anyone else has there feet. We will eat at the rest we ate at twice since that is a good veggie place. Our guide came by last night and we chatted about the country. When we were in the Kayak together he said that there are thousands of acres that will take a century to reclaim since it was so damaged with the cemicals... They do eat dog here and the other three are off tonight to feast on little sparky.... this has been good for my practice... don't commit to anything that you do not want to do.. if you do it ... do it your way... and don't judge what others do. On the ship, the Canandian engineers were just that... and also one was RC.. so you know, like AM... they are right. I was one for years... my way or your way is stupid. I long for the same same but different... folks that are stuck in their own little world are often the most fearful of outside the box. What would happen if we opened our hearts a little to include someone not a cookie cutter model. Mich said that when the others come to this country and stay.. they come as a small group... eat their food.. talk their language and are insulted if you do not accommedate them. It is amazing how quickly one becomes the ingroup...and even those that were there before.. are outside looking in... I like my time with a person who can speak about where I am .. it opens your view.. and how simple them live with everything counting. I can see some good changes coming. off to grub and massage.

Catch up

Ok. It is after dinner.. so what this only two nights ago that we hiked to the end of the earth and stayed on the floor on a mat and ate with the family. To go back a little. We shared the train with a couple from New Zealand. I slept fairly well for a noisy train. I found that if I slept on my hearing ear...all I could do was hear clink clink but if I rolled over I could hear the less. Interestingly, everything you do is related to the toilet. Now that I have had my first full bathroom experience on a squat...it is all down hill. The train going to Sapa was a jiggling one and we had to walk 5 cars for the sit down... worth the hike. This train coming back had many nice clean westerns. It was a good think for the ride down the mountain with the driver honking was a frightening as the one up the hill. When we got off, we took a cab to the tour place and sorted clothing. That has become a spritual ritual... you silently pick every item up...try to see how badly is smells and then put it to go.. to stay.. to hope to wash. You do this while sitting in a restaurant with folks eating breakfast...and you think nothing of it. We finally boarded the bus around 8 and started the journey to Holong Bay. I had read about the experience but I really don't think of how I am going to do this. oh well.. you just do it. After our hike the day before, my legs told me they did not enjoy going up and down the stairs.. in fact they hardly liked walking forward. but no blister. I just go a deal from the Marathon folks and am considering doing it.. I will not be carrying a 20 pound pack. Anyway, we took was is left and clean and shoved it into the backpack and off top the bay. The bus stops at a heart-tug. That is what I am calling the places the have folks that were the recipients to the agent orange..well I did find a nice statue for $27... like planning a trip. you have to think... can I carry this.. how will I get it home etc... you just don't consider that.. and we still have two small planes.. so I hope to get it home. I also bought three small embrory things and home one will be good for Janet, Jim's friend. I think part of the reason I don't buy things, I can not think of who would really want them. I want little that is given to me.. so don't expect much. I did by a pair of salt water pearls from Holong Bay... the Canadian folks who appeared to be in "the know" said they were good... so .. I took out my $2 and bought a pair. Our time on the boat and our short trips were very interesting... but I was just glad to be sitting down. It is hard to travel with others. Page doesn't like air conditioning.. and I can not sleep in last weeks air. so I don't get a great deal of sleep. My ipot is not doing well.. so that gives me more time to meditate.. I spoke of the food in the last blog.. they bring in small shrimp.. then calamai...then crabs... then big prawn... and rice etc. amazing stuff. I was happy to see juice, toast, eggs this am. Also very happy I really ate. I was so aprehensive about going I could not think about others and by error left Page in the room not having me to figure out whre to go... It caused her some moments of discomfort...but we recovered. It is hard always thinking of others,... when you don't know what you are doing. To say I crawled down this metal ladder and sank into my kayak like a feather is to not give you the true picture. I had my suit on.. then then the life perserver - snug fit and the kayak hole cover and the bag for the camera. and then I started down the step.. just step in the boat... right.... I turned around and in a moment of total faith.. let go and was standing shaking the kayak. It was about 15 min into the venture when I was actually able to stop saying.. in...stroke right out stroke left.... After a short time.. I can do this. We went into grattos, caves, under rocks, around fish farms, and pods. The young girls got tired and we pulled them... then we ate... more shell... I have started to itch... hives... so not for me.. I ate over done chicken. After lunch. Page took a swim and I stayed to guide her... and then off to kayka again... I am the only one not exhausted. and sore.... I will continue this in the morning...pre spa treatment... 90 min oil massage $16....mmmm

non swimmer spends day in ocean

We are finally at the resort. I will write more later.. but let me just say there is not another way to fix seafood and serve it that I can think of. Crabs, prawn etc.. increatable food .. with our little band of 6 canadians, 2 montrealians, 3 spaniards and a boat of VN....and us... the scenery was out of this world and unfortunately I have to search for my picture deal so I will only write a little... This am we got up and had a great breakfast and then went out in a boat to an area where we were to kayak..... I don't swim. My legs can hardly work after our hike and I am about to climb down a laddler and get into a kayak... put some bib deal on... strap my camera in a wet bag to the haul.. and start to paddle... well.. our native guide saw my fear and said Page should go with Fredando and he would take me.... not that she would not be good.. but confidence level shot right up... and we ended up pulling the two young spanish girls and after kayak from 9 to 4 with a long lunch break... I am so excited that I did it... it is almost as much of an accomplishment of fooling folks and letter me get out of 3 grade... love to all.. we are in a 4 star resort..and I am off to the sauna and pool... and then 7 dinner...and a 10am 90 min oil massage.. and live is good....b

back in Hanoi

This will be a short snap .....what an adventure. It is not for the faint hearted and there were many times we thought of others and said... no way. The train ride last night was very noisy but Page slept better and I can live with almost anything. I have a clean shirt on my dirty body. The roach in the bathroom this am was ride able... oh yes.. western toilets on the train....praise the lord... my legs can just keep me up in an upright position. The sights we have seen were remarkable... teirist rice paddy, eating sugar cane as we walked. seeing the 8 day old baby with more hair than I have now. Nicki the dog. the hills will not show well in the photos since it is always cloudy. From what I understand now their is seafood on the boat... I will live with it. We are one day on the boat and then a hotel.. so no news tomorrow..but think of me laying on a nice red boat with sandpan sails in the beautiful bay ....and getting up to tai chi... more later...b

Back to earth

We walked into a time tunnel, except it was at the end of a up and down around over rocks, accross stream, up more hills, down dirty roads etc. We thought of our travel companions often and said... we are longing for the bathroom that had the water in the room. It was the most experience I have had in a long time. I am now going to get up every morning and say, you are not as young as you use to be... but then again if you don't verture on, there will be nothing to remember. We had a 20 yr old hill woman who spoke very good english and was very patient with our/my speed. I never get sore...but my legs have been pushed. The marithon walk was a walk in the park... nothing. She is married and when they give birth, they just squat in their room by themselves and 45 min later.. they cut the cord and just about go back to work. I thought going to the bathroom in the squat at 8 this am was difficault... If you know my body pattern.. you will get the drift. I have about 500 pictures of this end of the earth but I am in Sapa waiting for Lang's mother to put a colar on the coat I bought. The coat, belt and colar will be 500... or $30. Before we left the village we went to a hot spring and I never loved water so much. Needless to say the pack I carried was way too much.... I did wear my fleece but not my rain coat, hat, socks etc. I did not bring my suit so my shirt and my sleeping trunks were all I needed. We bought shampoo from a little store. Last night we had rice wine after dinner with the family. And what kept me going the last mile of the long hike from 9 in the morning until 6 at night was the thought of a cold Tiger. I would have liked a ride on the Tiger. Hill people are hill people and even up in the mountains there were sales . by something. We did buy something from the folks that helped me over the rocks. The woman, in plastic sandles, nursing a child and carrying her wears, held my hand and arm as jumped into and off of rocks. The view is hardly real to what we saw.

This woman is sweeping her steps. The trek is not for the weak or fait heart, but the end is worth it all and we have seen some things that are as old as anything I have seen re a way of life. Every part of life has a meaning... more tomorrow after our train ride. b

Sapa

To answer a few questions. I went to the pharmacy and got some day and night pills and in a day and night I am fine. I have to blow my nose a few times a day... so nothing is stopping me. Poor Page did not sleep on the train so this will be a long day for her but she is wanting to go on.. so on we go. Her eyes are both open but she is wearing her glasses so can not see as well as she could. (sorry pic is blurry.. it is the trainstation and on the other side is China. We are in the otherside of no place. With Frank Sanatra singing in the background and an internet at the coffee shop. We leave in 20 min. We got on the train at 9pm with a nice Gr couple who spoke perfect Eng. and were very nice .. they travel a lot. Page like the top.. so she got the only air and I layed in my clothes on the bottom and sweat to sleep.... I counted drops not sheep. We got here at 5:20... that is when they said and that is what it was. There are western wc but you have to walk 4 cars to find them... the train station had a sqat...but it was not moving.. even though I was. We took a nice mini to the mts... drove an hr and we only went straight for a second. Our van was fast so they passed everything .. amazing. It is helping my practice to be so in the now and just... oh well.... if you can believe it.. I am more... OH WELL than ever. I am giving Page options but she must decide for herself what she is to do. I have loaded some pics and hopefully they will appear before I disappear. Lang will guide us down the mt to several villiages and a hot spring. Of course my swim suit is back at the city, but I have my yoga pants and sleep shirt... so I will go in. I am in shorts and shirts. I did by a backpack rain cover but I don't think I will need it. This is a magical little village. and amazingly this place as very primitive hilltribe folks carrying sand and bricks on their head, motor bikes and internet. I thought of Joe.. one of the rest. was t-bone steak. I don't have time to pull down the pics. In the one on the left. The men on the hill are exchanging the basket of sand which they carry in a relay down to the construction sight. The middle picture is the back of the houses. The mts are not clear yet..but soon. This is terrific and we have heard the boat is even better....love it... I would not go back to Siagon.. Hanoi was much better.. and this is worth it all... Glad folks are enjoying the trip via the blog. The last pic is on a child that was going to work with his father.. the faces are great... Off I go into the wild blue yonder... I am more centered and sure of where I am going everyday... this is good. Joe we have the same travel time as you.. get in at night 6:18 via DC something on Monday 23rd... This is the top of the world and about as far away from 48 A as I will probably get. bye for now....love to all.. and scratch to tipper and thank you for loaning us your mom. b (no spell check.. oh well)

hanoi

We got up early this am.. as in we had to wake the staff. They were to give us a 5am call...but hard to do with 6 young men snoozing. We asked for a cab and then pointed to the outside and a cab in front. the man called the cab company and they told him there was a cab in front. It reminds me of how many light bulbs. When we came in the trip from the airport was forever and today we did it in about 20 min. I thought one of us was having a baby since he road the entire way with his hand on the horn. I thought he was honking at people in the house in their pj's who might come out. The domestic air was more stark and we got when we thought they called our number and almost got on the wrong plane. No extra cost for the check in luggage.. but I can hardly lift the back pack. When we were sitting there, we mentioned that J&J should be home by now and we got a comment saying they were both safe. When we landed we got a cab to truck us the 26k to the travel place. they have a storage place for luggage with an ominous sign... don't leave anything in the bags that can attract rats. interesting and makes you feel very secure. In my camping days, they are soap.. oh well. We just checked in with everything and when we come back tonight for dinner we will sort out the things we need. This is a great place to eat... (happy bonny) and we had a terrific veggie brunch and just had a very up town dessert and beer/tea. We ate in a little tea room and I had 10 mini cream buff with a drizzled sauce... the presentation was like rooney's and it cost $5.5. After brunch and before the dessert we went for a bike carriage ride. we each got one. They took one look and said two. It was interesting being pedalled around slowly in the streets with cars and scooters coming all around us. Since only 20 are killed a day, we were not worried. There are tons of nice veggie places to eat. My thought of Siagon... rice.. some green veggie and sauce... tasteless.. I would say other than the day I hated re fried beans in Mex. that was the worst.. this is wonderful Well time for massage.. sort our clothing and then off to Sapa. I don't think you will hear from me for days.. but we are ok... cold better.. Page can open her red eyes. b.

Sat

The lotus flower

We thought often today of our friends on the 23 hr odysey while we had a great day. First, I have been struggling with a cold and this is the hotest place which makes you feel even worse.

So I went to the drugstore and for 40,000 or about 2$ I got meds to take me thru the day and night. I started to feel well almost immediately so this was a super day. We signed up for a Mykong tour for $17 for the day and started out at 7:30am after breakfast. While Page still had red eyes, she doesn't look any worse for where and can get both eyes open for most of the time. As we were going out there, which is only 17k but takes two hours we could see boats on the shore with primitive living and a tv. When we got there, after two rest stops to buy the local wears, we boarded... or stumbled in to what must be standard Mykong riverboats. I was still very tippy. Interestingly, as you see the snout is very high so it can snake up to docks. Which are cement stairs that go from the canal. The motor is similar to the canal boat in Cambodia. When we got to the island and fell off the boat, we were treated to rice and banana whisky and tea with honey and lime. As well as a sample of the fruit. Our guide sang a few songs and it was fun. After the festivities we took a boat ride...three in a boat with a stearer and pusher. We travelled down the canals and both thought this must be the kind of water the war was in all the time. The boats passed without a problem and there was something very serene about ther trip. We all wore coolee hats and I am sure before I get out of there I will have one. We saw old and young, men and women pushing the boats. It was surreal. The water was as dirty and interesting as you might think it was. After our lunch we got on turn of the century bikes and road around the city with motor bikes beeping to get by. We have figured out that while there are fewer cycles here...they all honk all the time. Here you can see the man from malysia riding be hind Page. I had more desire than brains to be snapping away while I road. Our guide was great. He told us many stories about the treesand plants. Here he is explaining that you can have a breast removed or you can climb to the top of the tree and get 18 fresh leaves...make a tea and then either drink half or spit on the breast with it... I will have to get the whole story..but is was priceless told by him. He know everyone on the road, canal, or in the restaurants.. and we gave him a good tip. Folks have asked about Page and here she is in contenplation in the bus. She is out of drops and finished her course of action, but remains ready and willing to go. We leave in the am for HanOi It is a smaller city and we are both looking forward to less hustle and bustle. I just can not get over the scooters.. so I will leave the blog with a couple of snaps. To night I saw a many with a goose in a bag, live chickens, many children etc. it is giving me courage to be very experimental...timefor the meds and shower...we will be up at 5am...just about when Joe/JoAnn are leaving Chicago for Roch... all is well..b